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Maine Cruise 2004
Week 1 (Continued)


Week 1 | Week 2 | Week 3 | Week 4


Thursday, July 29, 2004
Cabot Cove - Pickering Island (10.6NM Plotted)

day6route.jpg (189610 bytes)
Route Chart

leavingpulpit.jpg (21718 bytes)The day began with more fog, as expected, but by 0900, things were looking up; the sky brightened, and the fog began to dissipate.  Shortly before 1000, I departed, happy to be underway again.

Outside Pulpit Harbor, I was pleased to find the visibility even  better than expected (I had dinghied out on a reconnaissance mission about an hour before, and things were drastically better now).  Once again, there was light to nonexistent wind, so I motored with the main up.  The day continued to improve, until it finally seemed like a real summer day, with hot sun overhead and clear skies, albeit hazy and rather humid.  Nice!  After a few days of fog, rain, and clouds, this was the right medicine.


sailtowardspickering.jpg (38461 bytes)To get to Pickering Island, I chose a course that led me through a nearby archipelago, winding through a few small islands and ledges.  In reserve, I had a more straightforward (though only 0.1NM shorter) course in case visibility was a problem; since it was not, I chose the more interesting route.  I motored through most of the day's route, but once I got to the eastern tip of Butter Island, a light breeze sprung up, and I sailed most of the rest of the way up to Pickering Island (about 4 miles) before the wind pooped out again.  Later in the afternoon, a gusty southwest-westerly breeze picked up, but by then it was too late.

I arrived at Pickering to find it deserted, as usual, so I picked up the mooring in the cove.  Later, three additional boats stopped in--the most I'd ever seen there, in several previous visits two years ago.  These boats chose to anchor well outside of where I was on the mooring, which seemed a bit odd since there is good water in the cove to the west of the mooring.  Just as well, though--no need to be all stacked up together.

pickering729.jpg (59293 bytes)


beachdinkboat.jpg (28881 bytes)In the afternoon, I rowed ashore for some exploring.  I wandered around some of the beach, but didn't go too far since I had the wrong shoes on (just some aquasoles or whatever they are--no support for the rocks).  It was nice to go ashore, though, and I spent close to an hour before returning to the boat.  The afternoon passed quickly, between dinghying, reading, and scoping out the new arrivals to the cove.  I added five gallons of diesel from one of the jugs to the tank.

towardsbucks.jpg (23028 bytes)By the time I managed to get enough cell phone reception to get through to the red tide hotline, the tide had come up, so I picked no mussels today.  Pickering had great mussels two years ago, and returning for more was one of the things I looked forward to most.  Heidi and I will return here later in the trip, I am sure.

It became surprisingly chilly as the sun went down, making for more good sleeping weather.


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Friday, July 30, 2004
Pickering Island


pickeringam730.jpg (12609 bytes)I managed to get in touch with Heather and Nathan on Dasein; it turned out they were just up the bay in Bucks Harbor, so they decided to head to Pickering for a rendezvous.  That was fine with me, as I had been thinking of staying the day anyway.  It was a sunny morning, with fog all around but clear at the cove, for the most part; within a couple hours after sunrise, the fog had dissipated as far as the eye could see, though the forecast threatened more for overnight and Saturday.  One day at a time.

It was another warm, summery day--a real pleasure after the so-so weather so far this trip (not to mention the dismal weather for a couple weeks prior).  In flat calm and high tide, I rowed the dinghy all the way over to the eastern cove at Pickering, where I had never been; it was beautiful there as well, and there was no sign of the house that is supposed to be there somewhere.  Perhaps it's on the south-facing shore.  In any event, the whole of the island, from what I could see, was effectively wild and unsettled--what a pleasure.


pickering730.jpg (36030 bytes)Dasein arrived around 1330, along with a powerboat that sped in.  At first, I thought the powerboat was trying to "beat" Dasein into a good anchoring spot, but then they headed my way.  Shortly, it was clear that they intended to talk to me, and I groaned inwardly, figuring that my time on the mooring was surely over.  Indeed, after a short exchange I understood that the boat's owners were members of the "Mount Desert Island Club", or what have you, which placed this mooring--and some other moorings--in a few places on the coast for its members.  I had no problem moving once I understood this, and dropped anchor a bit further in the cove, ahead of Dasein and the mooring.  I ended up in about 9' of water at low tide.  You take your chances with these moorings, and it was no big deal to move.  Of course, I would have preferred staying on the mooring, but...

pickering730a.jpg (170739 bytes)


glispickeringn.jpg (25887 bytes)At low tide, Nathan and I rowed ashore to pick some mussels--mmm.  It seemed a little harder to find the small, delectable ones that I remembered from two years ago, but we found plenty nonetheless.  I picked many extra so that I could keep them hanging in a bag over the side for future meals and entertaining, especially once Heidi arrived in a few more days--she'd kill me if I picked mussels from Pickering and didn't provide enough for her!  We had a fun cocktail hour on Glissando, enjoying fresh mussels cooked to perfection, and then later, the fun continued with grilled burgers on Dasein.  I finally made it back to the boat at about 1015.
(Photo courtesy of Dasein)

Saturday, July 31, 2004
Pickering Island - Bucks Harbor
(4.83NM Plotted)

day8route.jpg (140188 bytes)
Route Chart

pickering731.jpg (16343 bytes)The day dawned with thick fog:  gross.  In addition, NOAA was calling for snotty winds--southwest 20-25,which usually means all of that and more.  I was looking forward to getting settled in Bucks Harbor for the day, where I was scheduled to meet Heidi in a couple days.  After getting up way too early at just after 0600, I restlessly waited for the fog to, I hoped, improve before setting out, though I was prepared to make the epic journey the short distance up the bay no matter the visibility.  At around 0900, though, the visibility improved markedly, so I departed, after saying my goodbyes with Dasein.  They were headed for Pulpit Harbor, and would also be departing shortly.

pumpkinisland731.jpg (20374 bytes)It seemed as if it had been pretty gusty in the Pickering Island cove, but when I got just a short distance away on my route, it seemed that the wind had all but died, leaving a sloppy chop.  I decided what remained of the wind wasn't worth trying to sail with, so I was a lazy bum and didn't even hoist the main; it was such a short trip (my speed over ground ended up being almost 6 knots the entire way, with the current in my favor), so I just didn't see the point.  If the wind had been stronger, I probably would have reside the sail.

bucks731a.jpg (21356 bytes)I arrived at Bucks at about 1000, and motored by the yacht club looking for my friend Andrew, the head dock guy there who I had met a couple years ago.  He wasn't around, but fortunately Heather and Nathan had run into him the day before, when they were in Bucks, and had given me some suggested (by Andrew) moorings; I found the one suggested and picked it up.  It was nicely out of the way, and well protected.

 

bucks731.jpg (89165 bytes)

After cleaning up the boat, I put the outboard on the dinghy and headed to the yacht club dock, where I walked up to the nearby store, mostly to check things out and less because I needed anything (other than white wine, a key component for cooking mussels, which I had forgotten to bring).  However, I was hoping to find something interesting for lunch, and found some delicious olive and onion foccacia.  On the way back to the boat, I stopped at Bucks Harbor Marine for some ice, and returned to enjoy my lunch and relax.  The wind had picked up, though it was hard to tell what it was like outside because my mooring was so sheltered.  I watched an Ensign motor out the channel, barely making any way against the chop--and several times losing ground!

A little later in the afternoon, I happened to be glancing away from my book and noticed another Triton in the anchorage.  Then I did a double take:  it was Dasein!  I figured they were here because the weather outside had turned nasty, but I was surprised since it had been so benign--despite the worst fears--while I had traveled up this morning.  I jumped in the dinghy to find out what had happened, and they reported ridiculous winds and seas that just prevented them from getting anywhere, so they turned around and surfed--quite literally--up to the safety of Bucks.  It was good to see them again, anyway, and they said that their planned rendezvous with Lucky Bear--Heather's parents' Hans Christian 38--had been moved to Bucks as well.

It was a quiet, relaxing afternoon, and later, I was invited to dinner on Lucky Bear, which I happily accepted.  After some days of quiet and alone time, it was fun to be social.

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Glissando, Pearson  Triton #381
www.triton381.com 

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